By G. Pascal Zachary.

Peru, birthplace of the spud, struggles to protect its biodiversity.

HUANCAYO, Peru—It is Saturday morning, and I am in the main food market of the provincial town of Huancayo, high in the Andes of Peru. In the potato section of this market, dozens of porters are hustling through with huge sacks on their backs. At 8:30, they are competing for space with a throng of intrepid shoppers, willing to brave the mayhem in order to choose from more than a dozen popular Peruvian varieties—and to pay homage to a food that is both a delicacy and way of life.

Read more: IN THESE TIMES

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